October 9, 2008
Claims to be the oldest freehouse in England (dating back to Saxon times) the building and furnishings certainly convey this impression. Although it’s hidden down tiny country roads, it’s got an enormous car park and a large patio area, giving the impression that it gets very busy on Summer weekends. On the weekday evening we visited, it was busy enough to create a good atmosphere without feeling crowded or noisy. Access is through a narrow passageway squeezed past an enormous barrel that seems to be an integral part of the building. It leads to a bar copiously covered with beer taps and pump clips, with all sorts of nooks and crannies stuffed with ancient-looking rough wooden furniture and eclectic memorabilia. The food is so traditional that it is unusual, with an emphasis on historic local dishes (ie Buckinghamshire Bacon Badger, and Chiltern Hills Pudding). Portions are a decent size, very good quality, and served in an unpretentious style. But it’s the beer menu that is astonishing by UK standards, ranging from mild to stout, barley wine to organic lager, trappist to Weizen Bock, Fruit beer to bitter, USA to Belgium to Germany to Britain - there must truly be a beer to suit everyone here. I was astonished to see Chimay White on tap! All beers are served in their branded glasses. My only criticism would be the high prices and lack of rotating guest ales. With the unusual food and beer and the obvious appeal to the Sunday lunch crowd, this could so easily have turned into a bit of a themed yuppie gastropub, yet it’s somehow managed to resist the temptation, and has somehow managed to retain the air of a traditional country local. The bar area was busy with locals popping in for a drink with their mates - it was weird to see such a group supping from bizarrely shaped Belgian beer glasses! It would have been nice to see a traditional jolly landlord controlling the place from behind the bar the young staff were very friendly and helpful, but somehow you felt that they would be more at home in a modern gastropub than this bastion of traditionality. They couldn’t have been more accommodating though - despite not having highchairs or a childrens menu, they were more than happy to accommodate our two year old and the chef rustled up a special childrens portion to our specifications! I think anyone would feel welcome here! A fantastic institution, a great pub experience, I’d thoroughly recommend it.