Goose Island Aviator Doppelbock

20th Anniversary Release; Sampled March 2009
As I pour this beer it visually reveals a viscous heft and has an interesting cranberry aroma. An average pour into my 25cl tulip glass produces a two-finger thick, amber tinged, tan colored head. The beer is a dark amber, full brown color that shows a clear, cranberry amber hue when held up to the light. The aroma is rich and malty, but leans towards raisin and berry aromatics at times. Spicy brown malt aromatics are joined by toasted whole-grain bread notes, richly caramelized malt aromatics that are not quite burnt, but certainly concentrated, though not cloying. The nose is quite nice and is in fact spot on for a Doppelbock; spicy, bready, dark fruit notes and rich smelling, just like a hearty Bock should be.

The beer has a spiciness to it up front, and it even has a light tartness to it. The flavor is a bit more roasted than the aroma would have suggested; it has a burnt acidity, it gets a touch acrid at times and has some charred malt notes that linger on the palate. This is not roasted like a stout, though it is in the Porter realm of roast flavors. The carbonation adds a fizziness and accentuates the tartness that lingers in this beer. This almost tastes lactic at times, which seems to accentuate a tart raisin-like notes and perhaps even a hint of tamarind. Some warming alcohol contributes a warming quality and a spiciness to the finish.<P> When served cooler, the tartness is tamed a bit more, which allows the rich, toasty malt character to come out a bit more. Browned malt character, rich toasted brown bread, and a light malt sweetness are also a bit more noticeable. This is not overly heavy, but it is certainly a sipping brew (especially when you consider the complexity).

This is thoroughly enjoyable, but I find myself dwelling a bit on the tartness here; it seems like it might be more than just dark grain and poor mash PH control, but it is not so tart that I can definitively say it is an infection. This is tasty though, in fact, with this flavor profile and if it had a substantial wheat character, it would make a really nice Weizen-Bock. In the end this is stylistically a bit off, but it is still quite tasty.

This poured copper to brown in color with a moderate beige head that faded away. The nose gave off aromas of roasted malt, caramel, Christmas spices and a touch of dark fruit and light chocolate. In the mouth it is medium-bodied with nice concentration and plenty of carbonation. The palate does have an odd sourness that is a touch distracting.

Draft at blind tiger. Poured dark w/ smallish head. Malt chocs etc. Taste is sweeter.

Draft at GI Clybourn. Pours a dark brown with a tan head. Medium carbonation. Aroma is of malt, spice, chocolate, and caramel. Taste is very rich malt, spice, brown sugar, raisins, chocolate, and caramel. Long lingering alcohol warmness. Mouthfeel is surprisingly light given the alcohol content. Has a malty, alcohol soaked finish. Damned drinkable.

Tap @ Clybourn. Dark brown color with a off white head. Very sweet from all the malt, a little bit of caramel. Light fruit sweetness. I almost thought it had a little smoke flavor as well. I didn’t sense so much chocolate.

Tap at Clybourn. Dark brown color with a modest off-white head. Scents of caramel, and light fruit abound. Nice rich feel. Flavors of caramel, light fruit and hints of nuts. A bit to much fruit for may taste in the style. Linger has a bit of bitter nut and linger returns to some dry grains. Still found the fruit to be too much of a distraction.

Draft. Reddish-brown in color. Malty sweet aroma. Tastes of caramel and malty sweet.

In short: Standard Doppelbock
How: Tap at brewpub (Clybourn location)
The look: Clear dark amber body with a small beige head
In long: Dark fruits dipped in molasses. The fruity notes do cover a lot of ground (raisins, figs, cherries, dates and even some bananas and litchis. Tickling carbonation. The beer falls short with a somewhat apparent alcohol and a low-profile hopping. Nothing memorable but this is a beer I can easily get drunk on. How ironic to call such a drinkable strong beer Aviator after all the scandals of drunk pilots (and even astronauts) these past few years. Next to a new “Republican condom” I cannot think of a more ironic product name.