Hurlimann Samichlaus

Formerly brewed at Hürlimann (Feldschlösschen)
Style: Doppelbock
Zürich, Switzerland

Molasses, leather, sherry, figs, dates and beans in the aroma that is quite complex but obviously past prime. Clear mahogany body with a very low, white, fully diminishing head. Full on alcohol in the flavour with plenty of sherry and marzipan and notes of figs, dates, molasses, raisins, leafy tobacco and cocoa powder. Biscuity, fig newton sweet aftertaste. Medium body with strong alcohol warming and fairly prickly carbonation. Bottle (1990 vintage) sampled at DenverLogan’s GABF 2005 wrap-up.

On December 6 a group of 14 started a vertical tasting of these beers four from the current era and two from Hurlimann. The 1996 was rated the best. The 1997 does not seem to be aging as well. These beers poured with little head and lacing. They were clear deep brown. They did not have a big aroma. They did have medium body, heavy sweetness and alcohol bite. The flavors were stron prune, toffe, maple syrup, and vanilla. Like drinking a rich port.

Sampled at Oakes’ ’05 Xmas Party
95’: Brown color, muddy, nice head and lacing considering the age and the strength. Nose is very nice and mellow, clean, some sherry, dusty raspberry and alcohol. The flavor is smooth and malty, balanced, full bodied and still a bit hot. Alcohol is a mighty solvent at this level.

Thanks to chilehead for hosting a vertical tasting of this very interesting brew. On hand was a ’95, 96’ & ’97. While I know that these were quite excellent, we opened them at the end of a very full evening of tasting and my objectivity was suffering by then. I had trouble handling the very assertive nature of this stuff and was somewhat overwhelmed. But then, maybe this would have been the case if I was fresh, because this syrupy sweet alcoholic brew is not the friendliest drink to lift up to your mouth. I like it, but it’s too much of an ass-kicker for me to embrace.

1995 version, sampled at 10 years old. Orange-brown beer, no head, small suspended particles in the beer. Massive sweet malty and fruity aroma, big brown sugar, dark malts, some plumminess. Amazingly aromatic. Sweet malt flavour, taste of baked rye bread, sweet malts, black cherry, but also some savoury soy elements. Absolutely amazing beer.

We did a vertical tasting of Samichlaus alongside our Bigfoot barleywine vertical. We had the rare and wonderful opportunity to taste a ’95, ’96, and ’97 Sami side by side. All were sweet as expected but the tastes varied from year to year. In order: 1995 - A hearty sweet and potent brew despite its 10 years of aging. Complexity along the lines of beef boullion, ruby port, and some slightly odd but not bad play-doh notes. Wonderful if not overpowering. But, this is Samichlaus, it’s supposed to be overpowering! 1996 - quite similar to the 95, but I liked it a bit better. There was some extra zest or zing to the nose that gave a sparkle to the beer not present in the ’95. 1997 - Roastier, deeper, and tangier than the last two. Tang was earthy like tamarind or dried lime. All were outstading, I’ll be buying a few a year to enjoy in the next decade. My ratings above are an aggregate of the whole.

Bottled from ’95. Very smell head, whiskey brown color. The smell is amazing, raisins, cork, mulled spices, glöögi, plums, prunes, and some other things I identify as very distinctly meaty. The taste does not disappoint. Some cognac, very sweet, evident sweet grains (think horse’s sweetfeed). Definitely a sipping beer.

Another big thanks to Dave for sharing this dinosaur from ’95. Pours deep brown with a tan head that actually sticks around. Aroma is of sherry and maple syrup. Plums and raisins come out as well as some alcohol, even after 11 years of aging. Syrupy body with little CO2 but the body is much easier to cope with than the newer vintages. Flavors are sherry and huge malts with dried fruits and lots of chocolate and some heat. Aged gracefully and I bet will do better in the upcoming years.